Costume og Holland
From the original painting
by Racinet
A beautiful print with brilliant
colors, depicting various Holland costumes ... in excellent condition.
THERE ARE SEVERAL DISTINCT GROUPINGS among the working people of Holland, so far as costumes are concerned. First, there are fishing folk, often from coastal islands, whose isolation from centers of population and simple lifestyle mean that styles of dress change very slowly. Then there are the Friesians, Scandinavian by influence, whose relative isolation leads to a general conservatism. Third, there are the Batavians, from the two islands of Zeeland. These lack the originality that Friesians display in their costume, but they wear clothes of a considerably more modern vintage. Among the men, for example, one sees jackets, waistcoats, narrow trousers and buckled shoes: certainly not part of any traditional costume. The women, too, wear clothes of a modern cut, and adopt fashionable hairstyles.
The illustration on top shows
(From LEFT):
1 & 2. A servant and a milkmaid
from
Rotterdam. As is customary, the milkmaid is wearing a large straw hat with
a turned-up brim, large earrings and a pearl necklace.
3
& 4. Zeelanders from Walcheren, dressed for an important
occasion. Zeelanders are noted for the elegance of their clothes. Here
the man is wearing a fine beaver- skin hat, and a blue and red chamois
leather waistcoat over a shirt, which is closed at the collar by a gold
button. 5. A fish-seller, from the
town of Scheveningen.
The illustration at the
bottom show (From LEFT):
1 & 2. Two Zeelanders from
the Island of Zuid-Beveland. If Walcheren is considered the
garden of Zeeland, then Zuid-Beveland is its vegetable patch, its granary
and its orchard. This is because the land is so rich in natural fertilizer,
having been reclaimed from the sea. Here the man is shown carrying a spade,
as a symbol of the region's abundance. He is wearing a yellow damask waistcoat
with a floral pattern and a row of silver buttons. Two gold buttons close
his collar, and on the belt of his trousers are two large convex silver
buttons, with matching smaller ones, to close his fob. Above the knees,
his trousers are held in place with black straps, clipped tight with silver
buckles, and there are also silver buckles on his shoes. In addition to
this impressive collection of silverware, he is sporting a silver watch
and watch-chain. In the country regions, peasants wear their hair long
over the nape of their necks to form a semicircle over the collar. At the
front, it falls low over the forehead. The peas- ants are very attached
to this hairstyle, which they consider a symbol of their freedom. The lady
is dressed for making social calls in her village. Her youth and unmarried
status are indicated by the fact that her hoofdnaald - a flat piece of
metal - is worn diagonally across her forehead, slanting down from left
to right. If she was married, it would slant in the opposite direction:
from right to left. Her straw hat is attached over a bonnet that holds
her hair in, with only the iron jewelry won in her hair allowed to show.
Her costume consists of a large piece of painted calico, which veils her
body from beneath her chin to below her bust. Two more pieces of calico
serve as covers for the sleeves of her bodice; they are held above the
elbow by gold buttons. The bodice is made of black damask with a design
of white flowers, and is crossed by a silken ribbon, embroidered with silk
and floral patterns. Below, a silver clip holds up a wide apron of red
check cloth.
3 & 4. Two fishermen's wivesfrom
the north of Holland, dressed in their best clothes. The lady on the left
wears a headdress made from a fine piece of gauze, em- broidered with flowers
and held in place with a ribbon knotted at the back of the head. The gauze
sits on a black skullcap, and is attached by a broad gold clip that ends
in two buttons over the ears. The front of the bonnet is attached to each
of the buttons by a gold, pearl-headed pin. The lady on the right wears
a much simpler costume, with basic jewelry. Her linen bonnet is turned
down over her head and edged at the front with lace. her necklace is made
of red coral, and her shoes are simply decorated with a knotted ribbon.